The Albanian Riviera is the reason I came to Albania \u2014 and the reason I stayed. The SH8 coastal road between Saranda and Vlor\u00eb is one of the most beautiful coastal roads in Europe: winding through olive groves, sudden views of turquoise bays, deserted beaches.<\/p>\n
Ksamil<\/strong> It has four small islands that you can reach by swimming or boat. The water is so clear that you can see the seabed at a depth of 10 meters. In September I was almost alone\u2014in July and August it's crowded, but still a fraction of the crowds of Corfu (which is only 2 km away).<\/p>\n Himara<\/strong> My favorite is a sleepy coastal town with a castle ruin overlooking the old town, a long pebble beach, and some of the best restaurants in the country. The "Bimi Beach Restaurant" serves fresh fish for 8-12 euros per portion\u2014in Greece, you'd pay three times that.<\/p>\n Dhermi<\/strong> It boasts Albania's most famous beach: Drymades Beach. Perfect for drone photography \u2014 the cliffs frame the white sand, and the water shimmers in five different shades of blue.<\/p>\n Berat \u2192 Gjirokast\u00ebr \u2192 Blue Eye \u2192 Butrint<\/strong><\/p>\n Advisor<\/strong> \u2014 the \u201eCity of a Thousand Windows.\u201c The white Ottoman houses with their countless windows climb the hill, overlooked by a 13th-century Byzantine fortress. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and a photographer's dream. The fortress is inhabited\u2014indeed, people have lived there for 2,500 years.<\/p>\n Gjirokast\u00ebr<\/strong> \u2014 the \u201ecity of stone.\u201c Gray stone houses, a massive Ottoman fortress, and a bazaar that has looked the same for centuries. From the fortress, I launched a drone flight that shows the entire city and the Drinos Valley \u2014 one of my most beautiful panoramas.<\/p>\n Blue Eye (Syri i Kalt\u00ebr)<\/strong> \u2014 a natural karst spring where crystal-clear water rises from a depth of 50 meters. The "eye" is a circular, deep blue hole surrounded by light blue water. From above, with a drone, it really does look like an eye\u2014surreal. Admission: 100 Lek (less than 1 Euro).<\/p>\n Butrint<\/strong> \u2014 An ancient ruined city (UNESCO World Heritage Site) on a peninsula in Lake Butrint. Greek theaters, Roman baths, Byzantine basilicas \u2014 2,500 years of history in one place. Few visitors, well preserved, unique atmosphere.<\/p>\n Theth \u2192 Valbona \u2192 Lake Koman \u2192 Tirana<\/strong><\/p>\n Theth<\/strong> Albania is its answer to the Swiss Alps\u2014only without the prices and the tourists. Steep mountains, green valleys, waterfalls, and traditional stone houses. The hike to Grunas Waterfall (2 hours round trip) is breathtaking. Until a few years ago, the road to Theth was only accessible by four-wheel drive\u2014now it's paved, but still an adventure.<\/p>\n Valbona<\/strong> \u2014 on the other side of the valley. The hike from Theth to Valbona (6-7 hours, the famous "Theth-Valbona Trail") is one of the best day hikes in Europe. It crosses an 1,800m high pass, passing mountain lakes and alpine meadows.<\/p>\n Lake Koman<\/strong> \u2014 The ferry across Lake Koman is like a fjord cruise in Norway, only for 5 euros. Steep cliffs, emerald-green water, absolute silence. Three hours on the water, and you understand why people call Albania "the new Norway".<\/p>\n For comparison: In Greece you pay 100-150 euros for the same level of accommodation, in Croatia 80-120 euros, in Montenegro 70-100 euros. Albania is by far the cheapest Mediterranean country.<\/p>\n Albanian cuisine is a blend of Greek, Turkish, and Italian influences\u2014and surprisingly diverse. Here are my recommendations:<\/p>\n Flights:<\/strong> Tirana (TIA) is served by Wizz Air, Ryanair, and Lufthansa. Direct flights from Germany start at \u20ac39 (one-way). Alternatively, fly to Corfu and take a ferry to Saranda (30 minutes, \u20ac19).<\/p>\n Rental cars:<\/strong> Highly recommended. Public buses run, but they are irregular and slow. A rental car gives you flexibility and allows you to reach remote beaches and mountain villages. Book through Discovercars.com \u2014 they list local providers with full comprehensive insurance (\u20ac25-35\/day).<\/p>\n Streets:<\/strong> The main roads are good (SH8 coastal road = newly paved). Side roads can be adventurous \u2014 potholes, tight switchbacks, the occasional goat on the road. That's part of the experience.<\/p>\nWeek 2: Cultural Cities (Central)<\/h3>\n
Week 3: Mountains and North<\/h3>\n
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<\/a><\/dt>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\nCosts \u2014 What does Albania really cost?<\/h2>\n
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\n category<\/th>\n Price (per day)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n \n Hotel (double room, good)<\/td>\n 25-40 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Hostel (dorm)<\/td>\n 8-12 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Food (restaurant, per meal)<\/td>\n 4-8 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n espresso<\/td>\n 0,40-0,60 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Beer (0.5L)<\/td>\n 1,00-1,50 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Rental car (per day)<\/td>\n 20-30 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Gasoline (per liter)<\/td>\n 1,45 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Bus (e.g. Tirana\u2192Saranda)<\/td>\n 8-12 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Daily budget (middle class)<\/td>\n 40-60 \u20ac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table>\n Food \u2014 Albanian cuisine is great<\/h2>\n
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Arrival and transport<\/h2>\n
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