Road trip to northern Brazil - the most beautiful beaches in South America 🏝
Big City bustle in Rio de Janeiro 🏙
Before we headed to the north coast of Brazil, we spent a week in Rio de Janeiro. From the start, I had high expectations of this city, and they were not disappointed, as there is just so much to experience here, and so many different cultures coming together in one place. We could have easily spent two more weeks in Rio without getting bored. Our highlights included the Museum of Tomorrow, the hike from Praia Vermelha to Sugarloaf, and of course, the incredible view from Christ the Redeemer. Additionally, you should definitely try a typical Caipirinha at Copacabana or Ipanema Beach - starting at 1.50 €, you can enjoy a first-class Caipi that is rarely served in Europe, with the option of passion fruit, strawberries... 😉
At the wrong time, in the wrong place
From Rio, we continued our journey by plane to Fortaleza, where we arrived in the middle of the night. Luckily, it is easy to book an Uber anywhere in South America, because Fortaleza is one of the most dangerous cities in South America, and you don't want to walk through the streets at night with all your luggage. The next day, we found out that it would have been smarter to go directly to Cumbuco by Uber instead of staying a night in Fortaleza, because Cumbuco was our actual destination for the first week. This small village, located only 30 minutes away from Fortaleza, is well-known among kite and windsurfers. Throughout the year, there is always an excellent wind for these activities, and the entire north coast is well-visited by surfers. However, there is only one month in a year where there is no wind, and that happened to be the month we were there! 😀 So, there wasn't much kiteboarding for us, and I only managed to get on the water with a huge 14-meter kite for one afternoon. The whole town was deserted, so we had to focus on work, swim in the sea, and sip cocktails in the whirlpool in the evenings.
The only tourists around
Since we still wanted to explore the north coast despite the bad wind conditions, we rented a small VW Polo in Fortaleza for less than 10 € per day and drove along the coast to Jericoacoara - one of the most famous holiday resorts in Brazil. Along the way, we passed many beautiful beaches that were deserted because even the locals don't vacation here during the rainy season. However, the off-season should never stop you from traveling, as it offers many advantages, such as cheaper prices and empty beaches.
Stress test for our Polo
Just before Jericoacoara, we were surprised when we were stopped several times on the road by supposed tourist guides who wanted to "escort" us safely to Jeri. We found out why shortly after: there is no proper road to Jericoacoara, only an unpaved path along the beach. During the rainy season, there are often floods, so you sometimes have to cross pretty deep puddles. After a quick check on the internet, we weren't deterred and tried to reach Jeri through the sand dunes in the dark. Luckily, we had a local woman in front of us who knew the way well and checked the small streams and puddles in front of us for depth. Some were easily 30 cm deep. However, our Polo held up, and after about 45 minutes of off-road driving, we reached the place where we had to park our car by the roadside, as only residents are allowed to use their cars here.
Jericoacoara reminds me a bit of the Gili Islands in Indonesia, as it is quite quiet due to the ban on cars and has its own unique vibe. Additionally, the beach of Jericoacoara is one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen – it is definitely the shallowest beach I know, and you can walk infinitely far into the water. The water temperature is almost like the Indian Ocean, so you can stay in the water for a long time without getting cold. Over the next few days, we spent our time with extensive beach and dune walks, and we explored the wildlife between the stones on the cliffs.
From Jeri, we went to the small village of Tatajuba, which is about 20km away as the crow flies. We were on the road for a total of 2 hours with our Polo, as we encountered the same problem as on our way to Jericoacoara: the incredible amount of water during the rainy season. To avoid most of it, we roughly circumvented the flooded area. After we had managed the familiar sandy road, we drove 50 km along the highway in pouring rain, dodging holes every 100 meters where children and sometimes adults can hide. 😀 Then we continued through the hinterland, where the rain made things pretty tough for us. After an hour of constant rain, we could no longer see the sandy road, and we were basically driving in a big river. Fortunately, our Polo survived this too, and we reached Tatajuba without any problems, which was even emptier than all the other places we had been to so far. In our entire five days here, we saw only one other tourist – so it couldn't be any more peaceful! 😀 Nevertheless, we didn't get bored because we had a lot to do, found interesting animals in the hotel, and were entertained with beach tennis. Janet also had the opportunity to take a few lessons in the nearby kite school, and on the last day, I was lucky enough to get back on the water, even if it was only for two hours. 🏄♂️ 🏄♂️
From Tatajuba, we drove all the way back to Fortaleza with two short stops. In Fortaleza, we spent the last week on the north coast, worked a lot again, and explored the dreamy beaches that can be found here as well. In addition, there is a huge shopping mall in almost every district of Fortaleza, so it never gets boring. From Fortaleza, we will fly back to Rio, where we will finally experience Carnival – what a thrill we have! 😀