Ecuador Travelogue — Quito, Galápagos & Amazon

Ecuador Travel Report — Small Country, Maximum Diversity

Ecuador is the country that delivers South America in miniature. In three weeks, I traveled from the snow-capped volcanoes of the Andes, through the steamy Amazon rainforest, to the Galápagos Islands—and the distances between them were never more than a few hours by bus. No other country on the continent packs so much diversity into so few square kilometers.

What surprised me most: Ecuador is significantly cheaper than expected (except for the Galápagos Islands, where your finances will suffer), the people are warm and welcoming, and the food is fantastic. Here is my complete travel report with all my tips, costs, and highlights.

Quito — Experience the highest capital city in South America

Quito is at an altitude of 2,850 meters, and you notice it immediately. For the first two days, I was out of breath after every flight of stairs, as if I'd just sprinted. My advice: Take at least two days to acclimatize before doing anything strenuous.

Quito's Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and rightly so. The Basilica del Voto Nacional is the most impressive church I've seen in South America—and you can climb the towers for breathtaking views of the city and the surrounding volcanoes. Admission: $2.

The TelefériQo, the cable car to the Pichincha volcano, takes you to over 4,000 meters. From there, you can hike to the summit at 4,696 meters. I did it in brilliant sunshine and stood above the clouds at the top—one of my most powerful experiences in South America. Cost: $8.50 round trip.

Food tip: The Mercado Central in Quito has the best lunch in town. For $2.50 you get soup, a main course with rice, meat and salad, plus fresh juice. Better than any restaurant.

Exploring the Galapagos on your own — Is it affordable?

Short answer: Yes, but it's still not cheap. A trip to the Galapagos Islands for a budget traveler costs around €100–120 per day. A cruise costs €300–500 per day. I visited three islands independently and spent a total of about €1,800 for 12 days.

Santa Cruz (4 days)
The main tourist island. The Charles Darwin Research Station is a must-see—here you can see giant tortoises up close, for free. Tortuga Bay, a 20-minute walk from the center, is one of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen: white sand, turquoise water, iguanas lounging on the beach. And you don't pay a cent to enter.

Isabela (4 days)
My favorite island. Smaller, quieter, more authentic. The hike to the Sierra Negra volcanic crater (the second largest in the world) blew me away—the crater is so huge it has its own weather systems. Los Túneles, a snorkeling tour through lava tunnels, was my absolute Galapagos highlight. Seahorses, sharks, rays, penguins—all on one tour for $120.

San Cristóbal (4 days)
The most chill island. Sea lions are everywhere—on park benches, at the harbor, in front of the supermarket. Kicker Rock (León Dormido) is a spectacular snorkeling spot with hammerhead sharks. The tour costs $150 and is worth every penny.

Amazonas Ecuador — Jungle Adventure from Tena

It's only a 4.5-hour bus ride from Quito to Tena ($6). From Tena, I did a 4-day jungle lodge tour that was incredibly intense: night hikes where our flashlights shone on caimans and giant spiders; canoe trips through flooded forest; and a visit to an indigenous Kichwa community who showed us how to hunt with blowpipes (I missed, of course).

The 4-day tour cost $280 — including transportation, accommodation, all meals, and an English-speaking guide. By comparison, in Peru or Bolivia you would pay at least $400–$500 for a similar experience.

Packing list for the jungle: Rubber boots (provided), long trousers, mosquito repellent with DEET, waterproof camera bag, headlamp. The humidity is brutal — anything not in a dry bag will be damp after day one.

Ecuador Costs — My Complete Listing

Ecuador uses the US dollar as its currency, which makes budgeting easy. On the mainland, Ecuador is one of the cheapest countries in South America—the Galápagos Islands, however, are in a league of their own.

Galapagos flight tip: Book your flight from Guayaquil (not Quito) — significantly cheaper, around $250–$350 round trip. Add to that a $100 national park fee and a $20 transit control card at the airport.

Practical tips for Ecuador

Best time to travel: June to September for the mainland (dry season in the Andes). For the Galapagos: January to June (warmer water, better snorkeling). I was there in October—the weather was okay on the mainland, but a bit chilly for snorkeling in the Galapagos.

Visa: 90 days visa-free for Germans. You will automatically receive the stamp at the airport.

Altitude sickness: Quito is located at almost 2,900 meters. Drink plenty of water, take it easy for the first two days, and avoid alcohol. Coca tea helps—it's completely legal in Ecuador and available in every hotel.

Security: Ecuador has deteriorated in recent years, especially in Guayaquil. I felt safe in tourist areas (Quito's Old Town, Baños, Galápagos). Avoid Guayaquil at night; use Uber instead of taxis.

Are you also planning a trip to Colombia? Read my Colombia Backpacking Guide — the perfect neighboring country for a combined trip.

FAQ — Frequently Asked Questions about Ecuador

Is it possible to visit the Galapagos Islands without a cruise?

Absolutely. I visited three islands on my own, using public ferries (around $30 each way) and local day trips. You easily save $60–$701 compared to a cruise. The downside is that you can't reach the remote islands like Fernandina or Genovesa. But the accessible islands (Santa Cruz, Isabela, San Cristóbal) offer more than enough.

How long should one plan to spend in Ecuador?

A minimum of three weeks if you include the Galápagos. Two weeks on the mainland (Quito, Baños, Amazonas, Cuenca) plus 10–12 days in the Galápagos. If you only visit the mainland, 10–14 days are sufficient for the highlights.

What is the total cost of a trip to the Galapagos?

For a budget traveler going it alone: approximately €1,500–€2,000 for 12 days including flights, national park fees, accommodation, food, and tours. A cruise for the same period costs €4,000–€6,000 and up.

For more South American inspiration, I recommend my Bolivia travelogue — especially the Salar de Uyuni is a must-see.