Madeira travel report: Levadas, Funchal & weather tips
My Madeira Travelogue After a week on the flower island in the Atlantic – and I'll say it straight away: Madeira surprised me more than any other European destination so far. The island is a paradise for hikers, drone photographers, and anyone looking for spectacular landscapes away from the crowds. In January 2024, I visited the famous Levada-Hikes, the dramatic cliffs and the bustling Funchal explored – with the DJI Mini 4 Pro A drone in a backpack, capturing perspectives that are not possible from any hiking trail.
- At least 5 days for the highlights, ideally 7-10 days for several levada walks and the north coast.
- Levada das 25 Fontes and Risco Waterfall (4 hours from Rabaçal) through ancient laurel forest to 25 springs in emerald green pool.
- Royal Tour: Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo (1,862 m): 5–6 hours over narrow ridges with 360-degree panorama, a head for heights is essential.
- Cable car to Monte, Mercado dos Lavradores with pineapple bananas and passion fruit, Espetada beef skewer 12–18 euros.
- Best time to travel: Mild year-round: January brings 17–19 degrees and green levadas, May to September clearer weather on the north coast.
What makes Madeira so special: On an area smaller than Hamburg, the island combines subtropical laurel forests (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), volcanic peaks over 1,800 meters high, dramatic cliffs, and one of the world's most unique irrigation systems – the levadas. These hundreds of kilometers of water channels, dating back to the 15th century, have been converted into hiking trails and lead through landscapes otherwise only found in New Zealand or the Azores. Whether you're looking for the most beautiful levada hike, want to know how many days you should plan for Madeira, or need practical tips on car rentals and costs – you'll find everything here.
Funchal sights: Madeira's charming capital from the air
Funchal is the perfect starting point for any Madeira trip. This city of 100,000 inhabitants nestles amphitheatre-like against the coast and offers a blend of colonial history, vibrant cuisine, and spectacular views. The old town, Zona Velha, with its brightly painted doors (an art project that has transformed the once dilapidated alleyway into an open-air gallery), is a photographer's dream.
The cable car to Monte (Teleférico do Funchal) offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the city and harbor during the 15-minute ride. Once at the top, the tropical Monte Palace gardens and the famous toboggan rides await – a tradition dating back to 1850, where two drivers push you down the steep street in a wicker basket. Kitsch? Yes. Still fun? Absolutely.
Funchal is a culinary dream: The Mercado dos Lavradores (farmers' market) overflows with exotic fruits not found on the European mainland – pineapple bananas, passion fruit, Monstera deliciosa. The national dish, Espetada (beef skewers on bay wood), can be found in restaurants in the old town for €12-18.
Hiking in Madeira: The most beautiful levada hikes (Top 5)
They are THE unique selling point of Madeira. Over 200 of these historic irrigation channels crisscross the island, opening up landscapes that would otherwise be inaccessible. The hikes along the levadas are mostly flat (following the channel), but lead through sometimes spectacular terrain – narrow tunnels, suspension bridges, steep cliffs, and dense laurel forests.
Here is my personal ranking of the most beautiful levada hikes:
1. Levada das 25 Fontes & Risco Waterfall (Top recommendation)
Duration: ~4 hours (round trip) | Difficulty: Medium | Start: Rabaçal
This hike leads through an ancient laurel forest to a natural amphitheater with 25 springs that cascade into an emerald-green pool. The detour to Risco Waterfall (100m drop) is well worth it. Tip: Start early – it gets crowded after 10 am.
2. Levada do Caldeirão Verde (The Adventurous One)
Duration: ~5-6 hours | Difficulty: Medium-Hard | Starting point: Queimadas
Through dark tunnels (bring a headlamp!), along steep rock faces and through dense cloud forest to a spectacular waterfall. For those who want to continue: The extension to Caldeirão do Inferno leads even deeper into the wilderness.
3. Pico do Arieiro → Pico Ruivo (The Royal Tour)
Duration: ~5-6 hours | Difficulty: Hard (exposed) | Start: Pico do Arieiro
Not a levada, but Madeira's most iconic hike. From the island's third highest to its highest peak (1,862m), across narrow ridges, through tunnels, and along dramatic precipices. On a clear day, a 360-degree panorama of the entire island unfolds. Warning: A head for heights is absolutely essential.
4. Levada do Rei (The Cozy One)
Duration: ~3 hours | Difficulty: Easy | Start: São Jorge
Perfect for levada beginners and hikers who aren't afraid of heights. The path leads through lush laurel forest, is wide and well-secured. A tranquil spring awaits at the end of the forest.
5. Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço (The Coastal Hike)
Duration: ~3-4 hours | Difficulty: Medium | Start: Baía d'Abra
A completely different picture from the rest of Madeira: a barren, windswept peninsula with red volcanic rocks and turquoise water. Spectacular from the air.
Cliffs, natural pools & Madeira's dramatic north coast
It's the opposite of the gentler south: wild, rugged, and with a drama that could have come straight out of a Hollywood film. The ER101 coastal road winds its way between cliffs hundreds of meters high and the roaring Atlantic – drone footage captures images here that truly make the scale of this landscape comprehensible.
Particularly impressive are the natural pools of Porto Moniz, natural lava basins fed by the sea that are perfect for swimming in the summer. The Skywalk viewing platform in Cabo Girão (580m above sea level!) is one of the highest in Europe and offers a sheer drop to the Atlantic Ocean – not for the faint of heart, but the drone footage from here is incredible.
Ancient, gnarled laurel trees stand shrouded in misty clouds – a mystical atmosphere reminiscent of "Lord of the Rings". In foggy conditions (which are frequent here), drone footage takes on a surreal quality.
Madeira Holiday Tips: Weather, Costs & Best Time to Travel
| Position | budget | comfort |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation/night | 30-50 € | 80-150 € |
| Food/day | 15-25 € | 40-60 € |
| Rental car/day | 20-40 € | |
| Flight (DA-CH) | 100-250 € | |
| 1 week total (pP) | ~500 € | ~1.200 € |
Best time to travel: Year-round, but March to May and September to November offer the best hiking weather. The north is generally cooler and wetter than the south.
A car is an absolute must on Madeira. The island may be small, but without one you won't reach the starting points of the levadas or the most spectacular viewpoints. Expect winding, steep roads – a small car with a good engine will suffice.
How many days do you need for Madeira? At least 5 days for the highlights, ideally 7-10 days if you want to hike several levadas. I spent a week on the island and could easily have stayed another.
FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions about Madeira & Levada Hikes
Which levada hike is the most beautiful?
The Levada das 25 Fontes with the Risco waterfall is my personal favorite. For experienced hikers: Pico do Arieiro → Pico Ruivo is the most challenging and spectacular hike.
How dangerous are levada walks in Madeira?
Most levadas are well-secured and suitable for beginners. Some routes (Caldeirão Verde, Pico Ruivo) have exposed sections and narrow paths – sure-footedness is required here. Accidents occur mainly in wet conditions and due to carelessness.
Is it possible to hike on Madeira without a guide?
Yes. The most well-known levadas are well-marked. For remote routes or for climbing Pico Ruivo in uncertain weather, a guide can be helpful. Offline maps (e.g., AllTrails) are essential.
How many days does one need for Madeira?
Minimum 5 days for Funchal + 2-3 levadas + north coast. Ideal: 7-10 days for a comprehensive experience including Pico Ruivo and the eastern tip.
Do you need a head for heights for levada hikes?
Not for everyone. The Levada do Rei and 25 Fontes trails are manageable even without a head for heights. Pico do Arieiro → Pico Ruivo, on the other hand, has exposed sections with steep drops.
Is it allowed to fly drones in Madeira?
EU drone regulations apply in Portugal. Drones under 250g are permitted to fly almost everywhere in the open category. Flying is prohibited near Funchal Airport, in nature reserves (Laurisilva forest), and over groups of people. Use the ANAC app for current flight zones.







